MK60 wiring: day 2

Day 2 of wiring-

Yaw sensor

I created a yaw sensor mount in fusion 360. I designed it with an angle to match the rear of the center console. I did this with a 15 degree angle, but I think I overshot a bit and might redo it at 12.5 degrees when I make an ASA version of it.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A4Cl81Kx56X45HpC0EBKL3TbjG8XoaOD/view?usp=sharing

here’s a flat version

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QIR6bk0leJpLQXX-Ms-03-titAoOwSGO/view?usp=sharing

2x #12 1.5″ self tapping screws

2x #12 1″ Self tapping screws

The post accept a m6 bolt and thread into the plastic. I might redesign it to accept heat inserts eventually. I also trimmed my console back a bit. I took 2-3″ off of it to give room for the sensor to mount directly to the metal.

Sensor Converter

So the setup I got from alex includes a box that converts the voltage based c5 hubs to something the mk60 likes. I mounted it on the outside wall of the engine bay just under where the clutch reservoir is. It’s a flat spot perfect in size. I took my windshield fluid tank out to do it. I’m not sure if it’ll go back in yet, but it’s pretty down there. You can see the outline of the flat spot on the outside of the car and its much easier to line it up there and drill then move it inside to mount. I used m6x50 bolts here.

Here’s the outside flat spot

I also did some tidying of the wires once I had it mounted just so nothing is flopping around and wearing.

ABS Power Relay

So the ABS needs a 5a fused 12v source that turns on with IGN. Luckily there is a fuse in the front fusebox called ABS trans that is just that. The wire out underneath is brown and runs to the ABS and (if you have an auto I think) the transmission. I’ll eventually clean this up by tapping that wire, but I just dropped in an add a fuse there to get power for now

Brake Signal

Last up is the brake signal.

• Blue Band – This is the brake pedal/light switch signal. This tells the ABS module when the brake pedal is depressed and ABS should be enabled. This needs to be connected to ground when the brake pedal is pressed and an open circuit when not pressed. This is backwards from most cars (most cars are ground when not pressed and open circuit when pressed). Check your existing brake switch output and if it does exhibit the above behavior, you lucked out and you can just splice into the OEM brake pedal switch. If not, don’t fret; there are quite a few ways to do this, below are a few of the most common – 
  • Add an additional brake pedal switch. Using normally closed switch like one side of the the Painless 80176 and connect using the normally closed part of the switch. Connect to ground on one pin and the Blue Band wire of the ABS harness on the other.
  • Add a brake pressure switch. Add this inline to one of the brake lines from the master cylinder to the ABS module. One pin should connect to ground and the other to the Blue Band wire of the ABS harness.
  • Using a standard automotive relay to convert the signal from the OEM brake signal to the signal required by the MK60. 
    • Connect Pin 87 to Chassis Ground. 
    • Connect Pin 86 to OEM Brake light switch ‘hot when pressed’ wire
    • Connect Pin 85 to Chassis Ground. 
    • Connect Pin 30 to the Blue Band wire of the ABS harness
    • Connect a Zener Diode between Pin 86 and Pin 85 of the relay with the Band end at pin 86 to protect the switch from back EMF when power is removed

I ended up doing the relay method. I wired it as above. I’m still going to see if I can’t find the rear plug for the brake switch, but I need it working.

• Brake signal is Light blue from the brake switch
• There is a ground point in the door frame. It’s super awkward to get the bolt out. If you have an interior, just find an easier one.
• I wired the diode on the wires, but since you don’t need the center wire on this, you could probably modify the plug internally to bridge the two ‘oem’ hookups.

I used these, but like I said- not long term

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079KHY427?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074QV54V1?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

The relay is just zip tied up to the wiring harness for now.

I’m still missing the 12v warning light, but that won’t prevent it from running.

Next up, getting INPA installed and another K+CAN Cable. Mine disappeared somewhere. I’m sure I’ll find it just as soon as the new one arrives.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L498NGZ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

The system should be powering on now and I can start bleeding it and get the car back together. I have an event next weekend so hopefully it’ll be all done.