MK60: mounted + hard lines run

I made some good progress on the mk60 on Saturday.

First up was getting the ABS mounted. I got some donut isolators for the mount. If you shape the mount correctly you don't strictly need these, but I wanted to space the mount a little bit further out and it gives you the ability to adjust the angle a bit more.

Next up was drill and mount some rivnuts in the frame. Don't forget to spray the hole with paint. I used m10 bolts here. I put purple locktite on the bolts here as well so they don't vibrate out.

The new vibration isolators from McMaster fit perfectly and are a lot more confidence inspiring than the chinese junk from amazon. I put them in with purple locktite. No way to wrench hard on this, so just a touch of vibration resistance is needed.

All mounted in place

Next job was doing the hard lines. The plan is to run completely new lines from the ABS to the front of the car. The rear I will tie into the existing lines. I started out with practicing with my Capi flare tool (Links for everything are in my parts list.- https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1VB2kJoFS0LGB_yg4XNKnwN6D1iYRHp8A7BOs1SzGzhE/edit?gid=0#gid=0) My very first attempt at a flare below. Works great. Make sure you rub lube into the bottom of the die. Otherwise its pretty simple to use. You'll be reusing the fittings at the brake end of the stock lines so be sure to cut them off. Also I strongly recommend safety glasses and a mask under the car. There is a high chance of nasty fluid getting dripped on you while doing this.

The LF I just ran through the wheel liner. Its super short. Cut the line longer than you need and leave a little extra bends if needed. I cut this to exact length and it works, but another inch or two would give you more flexibility later, or if you screw up a flare.

I did the RF next. I used the original routing under the car along the side of the front beam of the sub frame. Where it would normally turn up to the old abs I sent it up between the steering shaft and the frame. I wanted to keep it away from the headers and my other choice was on the outside of the frame rail. I wanted to avoid something where the line could get pinched easily with a 4 off.

And the routing under the car. I added another strap on the drivers side. You may want to file down the rough casting protustions.

The two rear lines I cut next to the frame near the header collector. Its the most accessible place to cut. There was already a union there on my car from a previous repair. I reused that and added another. This was the most challenging spot to work. The ratcheting line cutter was clutch here. (in my list of parts) The Capri tool fit easily.